Motsuji -
Paradise Garden

Long ago, in the far north of Japan, a Buddhist dream city was created. It was a city of gold and glitter, a marvelous place with palaces and temples covered in pure gold. Like all dreams, it proved remarkably evanescent.

Hiraizumi, as this chimerical city was called, was established in 1094 as the capital of the northern Fujiwara, a clan which had come to control northern Japan and claimed to be a branch of the mighty family that dominated the court in Kyoto. Four successive lords ruled from the city, and each sought to further embellish it in his turn. The fourth lord, however, got entangled in the intrigues of the Minamoto clan, who were just then battling for absolute power over Japan, and who did not like to see an independent power in the north. He was beheaded in 1189. This event not only marked the end of the dynasty, but the dream city was also ravished by soldiers and fires, until it was indeed only a dream that remained.

The Imitation of Paradise
Like neighboring Chusonji, Motsuji was originally founded by Ennin, the Tendai monk who traveled extensively in northern Japan. The second Fujiwara lord, Motohira, remodeled it in the style of Byodoin, the famous Phoenix Hall in Uji, a pavilion with outspread wings like a bird taking off in flight. This pavilion stood behind a large pond that was crossed by two graceful bridges. Vermilion beams shimmered on the waters of the pond, the reflection only broken by dragon-shaped boats carrying rich courtiers. Over the years, more and more sumptuous halls were added, until it must have seemed that a real paradise, the heaven of the Amida, was lying across the pond at the bottom of the green hill.

All that remains now of this splendid heaven on earth, after a raging fire in 1226, are the stones that were used as foundations for the pillars. All that is left of the dream of a great holy city is the grass swaying in the wind. And the pond remains, the pond of Paradise Garden, lying placidly against the backdrop of the dark northern forest.

There are a few buildings of recent date, but these give the impression of being unnecessary additions, and it is best to ignore them. From the entrance of the garden, I walk straight to the lake, to the site where the temple gate once stood. Originally, it was from here that a bridge led to an islet in the center of the pond, and from there on to the temple, on the opposite side of the water.

Now the lake sparkles in the low winter sun, reflecting only trees and sky. On the opposite bank, where the vermilion pavilion once raised its elegant wings, is the brown grass. Behind that, the silent cedars raise their green tops aloft.

I think of the musical performances that were given on the central island in the lake. The sound of flutes and drums must have echoed against the forested hillside. Mixed with it was the deep booming sound of monks singing sutras. The Tendai denomination, to which the temple belongs, still practices a traditional way of sutra chanting that originally came from China.

Foundation stones of the former temple

The real paradise
Now there is only the rustling sound of dead leaves at my feet. Some gardeners are busy cleaning the paths. Others hang lanterns on strings for the coming New Year celebrations. I follow the lane that circles the lake. There are only few people walking here today. I inspect the foundation stones at the far side that lie in the shade of great trees. A heap of stamped earth still indicates the place where the altar used to be. Nearby, the bridge over the pond came to land, and there also stood the belfry. Groups of irregular shaped rocks have been placed at the water edge for decorative purposes. One group, with a large narrow rock rearing its head above smaller ones, looks like an arrangement in a Zen garden.

After making a round of the pond under the green canopy of the trees, I return to where I started. I have not missed the absence of buildings, not even of the statues the temple once possessed. All has returned to nature, and that is how it should be. The garden, originally the temple's central element, has become the temple. The lake, the rocks, the trees - these are Motsuji's sanctuary.

This garden is paradise.